3 DAYS IN VENICE, ITALY
I have avoided Venice for quite a few years because I had this thought in my mind, that it is just too crowded for me. But Venice has it all – the canals, the colorful buildings, the Palazzos, the romance, floating in a gondola down a serene canal lined with candle-lit restaurants, listening to the gondolier serenading with gentle romantic tunes. We booked a trip for March. (I bit chilly) but yes, it was less crowded.
I hate to burst that bubble, but with over 20 million tourists thronging to this island each year, Venice is not exactly serene or relaxing. Sure, it’s an engineering miracle, encircled by calm lagoon waters, but it’s also the most expensive city in Europe for tourists and a royal pain in the ass to get around. However, there’s no denying it’s the magical allure that simply must be experienced at least once in a lifetime.
Here’s our handy 3-day itinerary that covers Venetian museums, icons like Rialto Bridge and Doge’s Palace, and then spends a day away from the maddening crowds touring nearby islands Murano and Burano.
WHEN TO GO TO VENICE
The good thing is: Venice is one of those Italian all-year destinations. The downside: It is pretty much packed all year long. Spring, summer, and early fall are the nicest periods in terms of temperatures and weather. However, these are the busiest seasons. If you want blue skies, strolls in t-shirts, and a high probability of nice weather, go between March, April, and October.
WHEN NOT TO GO TO VENICE
Try to avoid July and August because it is jam-packed. If your dream is to photograph Venice in fog, November is a good month to go. From December to February the streams of tourists get fewer however it can be quite chilly and damp. But there’s this super clever saying there’s no bad weather, but only bad clothes, right? Haha.
AN OVERVIEW OF THE CITY
The city can be divided into several areas/neighborhoods – for making the best of your trip – we have split it into some areas.
Cannaregio in the North of the city with its main tourist road Strada Nova has some hushed corners as well as beautiful bridges and canals which I strongly recommend you explore. San Polo is the district southwest of the Canale Grande. It houses the Rialto Bridge and the fish market. San Marco is a conglomerate of fascinating architecture: Doge’s Palace, San Marco Square, Bridge of Sighs, the Opera building, just to name a few. Dorsoduro shows the real Venice and is less crowded than San Marco or San Polo. Castello is a large district and quite diverse. You’ll find spots packed with people such as the Riva Degli Schiavoni as well as residential areas in the East.
GETTING AROUND
While it comes as no surprise that boats are the only way to get around Venice, I couldn’t help thinking the public transport system was more complicated than it needed to be. Once you made it to Venice, you’ve got several options to make it through the jungle of little alleyways and canals. Here’s your Venice travel guide within the city.
Water taxis and gondolas charge through the roof so I recommend avoiding those in favor of a water bus (Vaporetto). Tickets cost a flat rate of €7.50 for 75 minutes validity (in any direction, single trip) and can be purchased with cash or credit/debit card from automated ticket machines near all ferry terminals. The touch screen interface allows you to change the language to English, so it’s fairly easy to follow. Just don’t forget to validate your ticket by holding it against a validation machine and waiting for the green light (next to the small gates), otherwise, you could be looking at an on-the-spot fine of €60 or more.
The nobler way of getting around in the lagoon is by lux water taxi. The prices are quite premium and you might pay 50 to 70 Euro for just a short way within the city. From the airport to your hotel the price can be way higher than 100 Euro. Be aware that water taxis do not drive along narrow canals. The upside of a water taxi, however, is that you can find plenty of them all along the Canale Grande.
For about 100 Euro you’ll get 35 minutes of romance in a real Venetian gondola. Unfortunately, eating and drinking are not allowed, so better forget to sip your bottle of Prosecco with your lover.
The Venetians hop on a Traghetto, a gondola rowed by 2 gondoliere carrying around 14 people in one boat. Watch out for the Traghetto sign and let you row to the other side of the canal for 2 Euro.
The best way to explore Venice is on foot. Get lost wandering through the narrow alleys, walking along the winding canals, and popping into all the beautiful churches.
THINGS TO DO IN VENICE
You don’t actually need a plan what to do in Venice because for sure you will stumble upon several things while you explore the city. Here’s a suggestion of activities which you might like and maybe haven’t heard of:
LIBRERIA ACQUA ALTA
Just a 10-minute walk from St. Mark’s Square, the Libreria Acqua Alta (Library of High Water) is a true hidden gem in Venice. Buried inside this little book store are old traditional gondolas. In the past, the boats were used to prevent books from getting wet when the water levels in the lagoon rose. There’s even an escape staircase made out of books to climb in case the shop floods. This tiny place can get quite crowded on weekends, but weekdays are usually quieter. Stop by here and pick up a book to read by the canals. The welcoming owner stacks new and used books in antique gondolas, bathtubs, canoes, and barrels. Even though you could spend all day sifting through and collecting literary treasures, be sure to take a break and play with the friendly cat who roams the shop.
After you’ve found priceless souvenirs and gifts, head to the garden and marvel at the staircase made from old, vibrant books.
Instagram dream come true? Absolutely. It’s not a hidden gem but still an experience to spend some time there exploring beautiful books. Be sure that the shop will be crowded and you might need to queue to catch a photo of the steps made of books. Visit Acqua Alta Book Shop in Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5176b.
RIALTO BRIDGE & MARKET
The Rialto Bridge is another one of Venice’s top sightseeing attractions. The view from the top of the bridge is spectacular. Even better though, is visiting the Rialto Fish Market. Visit the market to watch the locals bargain for their groceries. Venice was born as a fishing village and the market still provides an authentic glimpse of the island’s local culture. Take a walk through the stands and ask the local vendors to show you their best cuts. Sample the fresh produce and absorb the vibrant atmosphere of the fish market. Open Tuesday through to Saturday from 8 am until 1 pm, you will need to be up with the larks to get the best quality products and good prices. As the markets are closed on a Monday, locals recommend not ordering seafood in the restaurants on this day as it will not be fresh!
RIDE THE GONDOLA
The must-do touristy thing is riding a gondola in Venice. As the lagoon waters are all quite shallow it makes it far easier for the gondoliers to punt through the waters with their skill and accuracy. It’s impressive to watch as they effortlessly glide between each other and miss the many bridges by sheer millimeters! If you want to take the total tourist trip then a gondola ride should be on your list.
If you don’t want to deal with all that, a good workaround is to book with Klook. This way, you have already paid for the ride and you won’t need to negotiate. Klook’s rate as of this writing is €30.40 for 30 minutes, which is a significant deal. Note, however, that you’ll most likely be sharing the ride with a few other tourists (up to 6 per ride). The number of gondolas is limited so book as early as you can.
VISIT THE ISLANDS: BURANO & MURANO
Our detailed guide for visiting the island can be found HERE.
Murano glass is famous all over the world. Famous for its beautiful shapes and colours and also for its premium price. It’s just a short Vaporetto ride to the island, where the glass is being blown. There’s also a museum, Museo del Vetro, with an amazing collection of historic Murano glass. Burano is a fishermen’s island with its famous colourful houses and the clotheslines can be reached in approx. 1 hour and 40 minutes with the Vaporetto number 12. If you have time and the sun shows up, go there and don’t forget your camera. Book a half-day boat trip to Murano and Burano here.
STROLL THE LITTLE ALLEYS
Leave the main paths behind you and walk along the little narrow alleys. You will find beautiful canals, buildings, little authentic restaurants, fewer tourists and gorgeous shops and boutiques that invite you to spend some Euros. Arcobaleno Pigmenti (Dorsoduro 853/d) is a wonderful shop where you can buy colour pigments, beautiful seals, and pens.
TAKE A RIDE ON THE GRAND CANAL
Grab your camera and your Venice pass, hop on the Vaporetto number 1 or 2 and take a ride all along the Grand Canal. You will see beautiful Palazzos and churches and the three bridges, Rialto, Accademia, and Scalzi from a different viewpoint. Try to find some space in front of the Vaporetto to have the best view.
The Doge’s Palace on the famous Marco square is not only an amazing architectural masterpiece with a remarkable history but also a museum showing temporary exhibitions, the Doge’s Apartments, and the Institutional Chambers. Every available inch of this room is adorned with paintings and gold decorative wood and carvings. It is grand beyond words! The lower walls are lined with seats for the most important members of the Senate often made up of the wealthy families of Venice St.Mark’s Square, tickets at 20 Euro
Peggy Guggenheim Collection with its amazing view of the Grand Canal is a modern art museum featuring Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Klee, Ernst, Magritte, and many more. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701, tickets at 15 Euro
VISIT SAN GIORGIO
The best spot to admire the little island of San Giorgio is from the top of St. Mark’s Bell Tower.
However, it is also worth a visit! Very rich in history. I can promise you that this is the perfect spot to witnessing the best sunset in Venice as the sunset sets behind the city. Climb all the way to the top of the bell to achieve a beautiful lookout over the city & St. Mark square.
CIMITERO DI SAN MICHELE
There’s a little island north of the city of Venice housing the cemetery of San Michele. You will find graveyards of famous people like Igor Stravinsky or Ezra Pound. Be aware that taking photos within the premises of the cemetery is not allowed.
ST MARK’S SQUARE
St. Mark’s Square or Piazza San Marco in its native tongue, is the central tourist point in the city and probably one of the most famous squares in the world. However, despite its name the square isn’t square at all! With beautiful and iconic buildings on every side of the square, you will need to set aside some time to stand here and take it all in! Here you will find The Palazzo Ducale (The Doge’s Palace), The Basilica di San Marc, The Campanile (bell tower), and the Torre dell Orologio.
Your senses will be extremely busy here; the 5 bells within the Campanile ringing at various points throughout the day, the live bands playing to diners sat outside each restaurant along the perimeter of the square and occasionally (and unfortunately) the unique smell of the canals and waterways in the summer months. You can’t help but get caught up in the romanticism of it all and that’s without mentioning the stunning feast for the eyes!
Once the political heart of the city, it is now the tourist center with plush hotels and high-end restaurants and more importantly beautiful palaces and churches at every turn and alleyway. Head over to Basilica Di San Marco. When standing in St. Mark’s Square, take some time to admire the stunning exterior of the Basilica. You’ll also have plenty of time to do this whilst queuing and be aware that backpacks and bags are not allowed inside. Just around the corner from the Basilica, there is a baggage hold where you can keep your items for an hour whilst visit. It’s not the easiest place to find but bear in mind that you can ‘queue jump’ if you have a ticket from here so that you don’t waste your hour just waiting to get in.
BRIDGE OF SIGHS
The bridge is built in Istrian stone and completely covered over with intricately latticed windows. It connects the Doge’s Palace to the dark, windowless prisons across the canal. The best view of the bridge is from either the Ponte Della Paglia or the Ponte Della Canonica. Those hoping to visit the bridge should book a Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge’s Palace, which will lead you through the bridge into the prisons themselves.
HAVE A DRINK AT THE GRITTI PALACE
The Gritti Palace looks fairly unassuming from the outside but the simple facade belies a wealth of beauty, majesty, and tradition that befits one of the oldest buildings in Venice and one of the most luxurious hotels in the world. With the hotel being placed directly on the Grand Canal, the setting of The Gritti Terrace was exquisite with a view of the Santa Maria Della Salute church, watching boats and gondolas drift by and simply soaking up the atmosphere of this unique place. Order a drink or two to go with that stunning view.
We highly recommend booking a 2-night stay in Venice to enjoy the true beauty of the city. It is unlike anything you have experienced before. We stayed in this apartment and would recommend anyone planning to visit Venice.
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